Hemphill Garden Club
777 Worth Street Hemphill, Texas
The very best articles on bugs and plant pests always start off by suggesting you buy “clean stock from reputable dealers,” which has always seemed a little silly to me. No dealer, reputable or otherwise, likes bug-infested plants any better than you or I; and who among us, for heaven’s sake, is going to purposely buy UNclean plants? Insects can happen to any plant, any time, any place, and the old saying “them as has, gits,” certainly applies here; anybody who has plants will, sooner or later, get bugs on them. Whether you call them insects or bugs, or a name not fit to print, the chances are that some or all of the arthropods which will be described here have either already had a merry time with your plants, or will have in the future. Healthy plants which are given the proper care are more bug-resistant than sickly plants, though, so if your indoor garden is in robust shape, you may not need this advice. Personally, I have had very few infestations in view of the number of plants I grow and the number of sources from which I get plants, but every now and then a perfectly healthy plant comes down with a bad case of thrips or aphids or mealybugs; some insects appear so suddenly and in such large numbers, it almost makes one believe in spontaneous creation! White Flies The insect that heads my unpopularity list is white fly. Other insects may be annoying, or damaging, or both, but this is even more so! Brush by an infested plant and whiisshh .. . the little things fly off in all directions. Aim a sprayer at them . . . ditto. They suck plant juices, leave the foliage pale and mottled, and are definitely undesirable, and equally hard to get rid of. Of course if you are a “fast draw” with a spray bottle, and can stand on your head to see the undersides of the leaves (where the white flies rest between flights), then eradication should be no problem for you. During warm weather, my method is to lift the plant ever so gently and carry it outdoors without disturbing the flies. There I knock them galley-west with a forcible spray from the hose and run back inside with the plant before the bugs can regroup their forces. If I do this every week for a month, the plant is usually back to normal. White flies are partial to flowering-maple, coleus, geranium, begonia, fern, fuchsia, and practically any plant you care to mention. I suggest that you isolate any infested plant and then give it the works, either outdoors with water, or indoors with a spray, but if the bugs keep multiplying faster than you can kill them, throw the plant away. My plant insecticide of choice is natural organic Neem Oil Mealybugs The sneakiest bug, and one of the most common, is mealybug. This cottony-looking critter grows up to one-quarter of an inch long, and once it leaves its hiding place in a leaf-axil or flower-cluster, it is easily visible. Unfortunately, it usually stays in hiding until it (he? she?) has multiplied into a whole horde; then they suddenly emerge and are all over the place. Mealybugs suck plant juices, and are definitely damaging besides being fairly repulsive-looking, so get after them right way. I like to lift them off with a small swab which has been dipped in alcohol. The alcohol seems to penetrate the mealybugs’ waxy coating, and a drop or two poured into crevices the swab can’t get to will make the bugs somewhat sick, if it doesn’t kill them outright. After this treatment, spray the plant with clear water to remove the traces of alcohol. Scale Scale, or scales, if you prefer, are also partial to practically everything, just like white flies, but prefer woody-stemmed plants like gardenia, croton, citrus plants, ficus, palm, ivy, and the like. One eminent writer described these as “motionless, and unable to move from place to place”… so how come mine progress like crazy along branches and leaves whenever I turn my back? I’m sure that writer must have meant that adult specimens tend to cling limpet-like in one place; the junior members of the clan practically set speed records one week on my gardenia bush! Scales may grow to one-quarter of an inch in length, and are usually dark-colored. Those that favor my plants are brown or blackish. Sometimes a stream of water will dislodge these, if they are not firmly established, or you can use malathion or Neem oil on them. I prefer to mash individual specimens right in their tracks, or lift them off with the tip of a knife blade. To clear up a bad infestation may mean you have to go over the entire plant every morning for a month or more, but handpicking the varmints won’t damage the plant and it is the surest method I know. Mites Maybe your problem is mites? These come in assorted sizes, names and colors, but the most common on my plants is red spider mite. It shows up only when the air is too hot and dry for certain plants, so I suppose the havoc they wreak is my own fault… spider mites cause the undersurfaces of the foliage to look webby and feel gritty, and in no time they can kill the growing tips or the entire plant. A Neem oil and Malathion is effective against these, and so is daily spraying with plain water. Cyclamen mites, evidently misnamed since they thoroughly enjoy a host of plants in addition to cyclamen, cause stunted, deformed growth. A badly infested plant should, in my opinion, be disposed of, although there are miticides which purport to kill them without damage to the plants. Or if you like your plants par-boiled, you might try dipping them in hot water (above 100 degrees) for ten or fifteen minutes. This is said to be a fairly sure cure. Sometimes you can propagate the plant from a healthy cutting, and discard the most badly infested part; then use miticide to inhibit the growth of any mites which might be lurking on the cutting. Thrips Thrips, small, rapid, and black or brown, may be suspected of causing the trouble if your plants have deformed buds or flowers, or if the foliage develops a silvery color. Sometimes forcible spraying with clear water will dislodge them, and neem oil or malathion sprays usually put an end to them, but once in a while I’ve had to resort to the solution of taking a thrip-free cutting and discard the main plant. Strangely enough, the thrip that is most susceptible to sprays isn’t the one that favors my plants! As I said earlier, I’ve got oat-thrips, and my County Agent tells me that the standard controls used by farmers are not designed for indoor use, so I’ve just had to put up with them, more or less, taking cuttings when the thrips get too plentiful, and waiting for cool weather when they disappear. Aphids Aphids are such a well-known pest that they probably need no description here, but for the sake of any novice gardeners who have never seen one they are about one-eighth of an inch long, red, gray, green or black, and stand quite erectly on their skinny little bow-legs. Their favorite dining-area is the succulent terminal growth of almost any plant, and of course their juice-sucking activities promptly put the plant on the sick-list. These are most plentiful in the summer, when they seem to ride indoors on the breeze (or on your clothes or on plants you bring in), but they can be hosed off into the sink or killed easily with a malathion or neem oil spray. Springtails No article on house plant insects would be complete without a few words on springtails. These are the terrifically-active little things that jump around excitedly when you water your plants, sometimes showing up in the plant-pot saucers in great numbers, or scurrying around on the sides of pots plunged in peat moss. For all the commotion they make, it would seem logical that they would do an equal amount of damage, but the truth is they are absolutely harmless. I don’t care for them, especially when they leap off a plant I’m using as a dining table centerpiece and get on the silverware or inch up the glasses! But springtails are a natural constituent of rich soil which has a high organic content, and they feed on the decaying vegetable matter, not on the live plant parts. However, if you want to get rid of them try neem or malathion. Slugs One more pest, not really in the insect classification, however, is the slug. These snails-without-shells always seek out the most prominent parts of your choicest plants for their foraging. However, during the daylight hours they love to conceal themselves under the pot-rim where they are easily found, once you suspect their presence (a slimy trail and chewed leaves means slugs). Just remove and squish in a piece of paper. Remember, if you follow good cultural practices with your plants, you may never be troubled with any of these pests. Use that well-known ounce of prevention… it’s much simpler in the long run than any cure. by K Walker Question:My question is on leaf mulchers. Years ago I remember my grandfather burning mountains of leaves every fall. Now that seems like such a waste of good organic material. I’ve been thinking about purchasing a leaf mulcher to grind up all of our fall leaves in the fall. Is there is benefit to mulching the leaves and do they provide any nutritional benefits to the soil? Caleb, Remington Virginia Answer: First off – Don’t Burn Those Leaves! No man would dream of burning a bushel full of one-dollar bills, yet each fall, bushels and bushels of money go up in smoke or are discarded. Decayed leaves not only improve the soil condition, but they can increase the yield and flavor of fruits and vegetables. They also bring a greater profusion of bloom to the flower beds, and better health, and more beauty to evergreens, and flowering shrubs. From all appearances a dried leaf does not seem to contain much plant food. A leaf’s value lies in the great amount of soil nutrients it contains. Nature’s Cycle Most soils are leached by heavy rains. Soil elements, necessary for good plant growth, are soluble in water, and are carried far down into the ground out of reach of ordinary plants. But trees, with their long, hungry roots reach down to this store-house of nutrients, and absorb great quantities as plant food. This food is then sent up the trunk to be used in the manufacturing of leaf cells. In the fall, these leaves tumble to the earth where they decay, and return to the soil those valuable elements it has lost through leaching. This cycle goes on year after year, maintaining the top soil in a forest at its peak of fertility. Is it a wonder the vegetation is so lush in a woods? Fallen leaves oxidize slowly releasing a constant flow of plant food the year around. Besides being Nature’s own food, they help to keep the soil spongy, porous, and moist. It would do us well to take a few hints from Mother Nature. Instead of burning leaves, we can put them to work improving our soil. Lawn Mulching Here is a way to end all lawn raking in the fall, and, at the same time, build up the turf. Mulch the leaves right on your lawn with a rotary mower. Set the blade as low as possible, and go right along as though you are cutting the grass. The mower will shred the leaves, and blow them evenly over the lawn as you go. The small leaf particles will eventually work their way down around the grass roots where they will decay, turning the ground into a rich, dark loam. If you have but a few trees on your lawn, gather up a bunch of the leaves with a leaf blower, then scatter several bushels of leaves over areas where there are none, then go along and shred them up. If, however, you have too many leaves, use some of them elsewhere. Too many shredded leaves can choke out the grass. Plant Mulching Leaves are excellent when used as a winter mulch beneath evergreens, shrubs, roses, and over perennials. Leaves slowly oxidize releasing heat which prevents plants from freezing in the colder regions. In the warmer parts of America, these leaves will keep the soil around plant roots cool, moist and porous. A word of caution about mulching peonies with leaves: first place about two inches of coarse straw or grass stalks over the crown of each plant to allow for air circulation, then place four inches of leaves as a top blanket. In spring, do not remove the leaf mulch if unnecessary. Merely cover it with peat moss or grass clippings. Decaying leaves are wonderful for acid-loving plants such as evergreens and blueberries. Besides adding valuable nutrients to the soil that are so essential for good plant growth, fallen leaves help retain moisture, build up loam and prevent the soil from packing hard in hot, dry weather. Leaves in Compost If you are familiar with a compost heap you know the great value of leaves. But, if you have never made compost, here is how you can do so in 12 days. What better way could you dispose of your garden refuse than turning it into rich compost? Clean your garden and flower beds by pulling up all dried and frozen plants, then rake the planting area clean. Throw all trash on a pile, and add several bushels of leaves. Bring in three bushels of aged cow manure, and shred it alternately with the trash. A rotary mower can be used for this work. When all trash and manu Within three days, the center of the pile should be quite hot to the touch. Turn it over completely with a garden fork and water down again. Do this two more times at three-day intervals, then allow the pile to remain undisturbed until it cools off. After it has cooled, the dark, rich material is ready for use. Place at least two inches thick under shrubs, trees,roses, around berry plants, grape vines, and other perennials. All of these benefits are derived from trash that otherwise would go up in smoke. The fertility of our soil is declining every year. Build up its productivity with leaves. by B. Brinhurt How To Defend Against House Plant Bugs
By K Walker
Properly speaking, bugs are not bugs but are, instead, insects. And according to Noah Webster, the term may refer to any of “numerous” small invertebrate animals. And numerous these pesky little things are, too; just when I think I’ve done battle with all the known species, a new one turns up and the fray begins again. (The most recent pest to take up residence on my house plants is oat thrips . . . and I’m not within 100 miles of an oat field!)
How to Make Your Christmas Cactus Bloom
Botanically, Christmas Cactus is, indeed, a true cactus; but for its own well-being, it really should have been given some other common name. To many people, the word “cactus” connotes visions of extreme heat, sand, and dry air, and consequently these would-be gardeners give any and all cacti the growing conditions they assume (incorrectly, by the way) the plants might have been accustomed to. With Christmas cactus such treatment is fatal.The plant is originally a native of Brazil, and there it grows upon trees as an epiphyte, in the manner of orchids. It doesn’t particularly care for heat, it would starve in sand, and dry air is an anathema to it. So to enjoy the greatest success with Christmas cactus, just forget that it belongs to the cactus family.
One of the most frequently asked indoor-garden questions, is “how can I make my Christmas cactus bloom?” My own procedure is to plan the family vacation for early fall, since I seem unable to leave the plant alone if we are in the same house – and the one thing Christmas cactus wants most of all, from mid-September until the first of November, is to rest. Between getting ready to go, and getting the house back in running order when I return, I’m too busy to do my usual heavy-handed watering, and the Christmas cactus really enjoys the partial neglect.
Of course there is more to growing these plants than giving them an autumnal rest. First of all, since they are normally epiphytes, they must be protected against water-logged soil. At the same time, they need ample water during their growing periods. Use a loose potting soil composed of loam and leaf mold, with enough sand added to provide good drainage. When using solid-bottom planters instead of clay pots, I like to use a mixture of sand and peat or an African violet mix which retains moisture well and yet allows some aeration of the roots. This mix, by the way, is excellent for many plants besides Christmas cactus… try it with African violets and watch them flourish!
Don’t pot Christmas cactus too firmly; if it tends to lop over when newly-potted, brace it in position until the roots have spread enough to hold it upright.
How to Water
Watering and humidity play important roles in the growth of these plants. Each grower soon develops a personal preference in how and when to water, but as a general rule, the plants should be watered heavily when in active growth, and kept on the dry side during the fall. At no time should the plants be allowed to wilt from lack of moisture. Give them gentle showers once in a while, using tepid water. This not only stimulates new growth, but also keeps the plants dust-free and discourages insect infestation. Try to give them a humid location – I have two in the kitchen and one in the laundry-room, the only places in my house where they don’t seem to suffer from dry air. If your home is excessively dry, set the pots on pebble-trays to increase humidity.
The temperature tolerances of Christmas cactus seem to range from below freezing to ‘way past stifling hot. I’ve seen them growing beautifully in greenhouses where the air was so warm I could hardly breathe, yet the ones on my kitchen-window ledge, where ice forms on the inside of the glass in very cold weather, go right ahead and bloom as if they enjoyed having cold feet. I believe the plants are able to adjust to their surroundings, provided they are given time to do so; plants constantly shifted from one place to another, or put outdoors for the summer, seem to lose some of this adaptability.
Correct light intensity is also important to these jungle natives. Too much sun bleaches the foliage, and may burn new growth, so try to place them in an east or north exposure. If only south or west windows are available, give enough shade to diffuse the sunlight.
Proper feeding is necessary, too. Some growers like to reduce both plant food and water for a brief period after flowering ceases, but I prefer to give regular liquid feedings throughout the entire growing period. This, like watering, soon becomes a matter of personal preference. You can readily determine the plant’s need for additional food by the color and texture of its joints; if they are a good green, and fill out properly, the plant is well-fed.
Propagation
To propagate Christmas cactus, take cuttings of any length, from one joint to several inches. Insert one joint deep (single-joint cuttings should be inserted to half their length) in moist potting soil, and do not disturb for six months. Cuttings will also root in plain water, and may be grown on for some time before potting. Eventually, however, the older joints become rounded with age, and the plant begins to take on the appearance of a rather odd-looking tree; it should be potted long before reaching this stage. And if this growing-in-water seems to contradict my earlier statement that the plants need to be kept on the dry side during fall, I can only agree that it certainly does! It is inconsistencies like this that make horticulture such a fascinating hobby!
by C Walker
Leaf Mulching
Container Gardening Guide – Indoors, Outdoors, Vegetables, Herbs and Flowers
Flowerpots new,old, large and small, planter boxes, fiberglass tubs, wooden barrels, hanging baskets, concrete plantersare just a few examples of the containergardening possibilities.
As many options as container gardening offers there are a few guidelines to follow for success.
When Choosing Your Container – Know Your Container
Gardening in containers give the flexibility of moving planters around if needed – for water purposes or for the plants to get more or less light.
Plastic pots especially cheap ones can breakdown and deteriorate when exposed to the sun’s ultra-violet rays (UV). Look for a pot with UV inhibitors to longer term use.
Although many glazed ceramic pots come with a colorful personality make sure they also include drainage holes to drain the excess water away from the rots. You don’t need root rot!
Terra Cotta pots can dry out quickly and can often become to heavy to move once planted.
Wooden containers are susceptible to rot – yes even durable redwood and cedar. Pressure treated wood or woods treated with creosote and other compounds can be toxic to plants. One big advantage of wood planters – they can be custom built to fit various sizes and shapes for your gardening needs.
Whatever size container you opt for make sure it carries a big enough capacity. You don’t want to a container that will quickly dry out causing the roots to suffer.
If you’re planting multiple plants in the same growing container, increase the size to accommodate the larger root system and water needs.
If growing plants requiring deep roots use deep pots! And avoid containers with narrow openings.
All pots and planters need to have adequate drainage. When selecting a pot look for pots that have holes approximately 1/2 inch across.
To prevent soil loss line the bottom or base of the pot with old pots chard’s, newspaper, screen or small stones. Even when doing this drainage holes can become plugged. Raise containers up by setting them on bricks to allow for free drainage. For basket plantersline them with sphagnum moss for water retention.
Light-colored containers work best in hot climates. Dark colored containers absorb more heat which can burn roots and produce uneven root growth. For hanging baskets keep them away from afternoon sun.
Growing Mixture – The Soil
When picking any soil mix for container gardening look for potting mixture that drains well but holds enough moisture to keep the roots evenly moist.
Compost can make an excellent potting soil, however I usually like to amend it with some sand and peat moss. It all comes down to the requirements of the plants you grow. If compost isn’t part of your plan, look for a good quality potting mix at your localgardening center or make your own. If you want to make your own potting soil – mix equal parts of sand, loamy garden soil, and peat moss.
Most container gardeners use we is called a "soilless" potting mix. Soilless mixes are readily available at your garden center, drain quickly, light in weight and free from soil- borne diseases and weed seeds.
When you plant your container, leave a 2 inch space between the top of the soil and the top of the container. Later adding mulch will help keep some of the moisture in.
Most potting mixes available are usually slightly acidic, so you may want to add a little lime. One tablespoon for a 10-inch pot size should work fine.
If you use clay or terra cotta pots, keep in mind clay is porous and absorbs water. Monitor the soil moisture closely. You’re pot could be absorbing more water than the plant!
Give Me Some Sunlight
Plants need light to thrive. Your container garden will need a minimum of five hours of direct sunlight each day, and many plants will benefit from even more.
Vegetables considered“leafy” like cabbage and lettuce can tolerate the most shade. Root crops like beets and carrots need more sun.
Your fruiting vegetables, tomatoes and cucumbers need the most sun. The amount of sunlight needed to flower varies depending on the varieties grown. Check the plants light requirements for flowering.
I Need Food – Fertilizer
Using potting mixes that drain water fast, yet holds moisture means fertilizers get washed out of the container as you water. That’s good as it prevents salt build up. If you’re mix is light (drains water fast) your plants will need fertilizing more often than heavier mixes.
Don’t fertilize every time you water, it’s a good idea to use a diluted mix of liquid fertilizer, but do it every other watering.
You need to provide your plants with a variety of nutrients. Check the labels on the products in you garden center to be sure that they contain a complete, balanced solution that includes trace elements.
Watering
In an exposed location, container plants loose moisture fast. Some plants will need to be watered daily, especially during hot, dry weather. Drip irrigation is a great option for easy complete watering.
What Can Your Container Garden Grow?
The list of what you can grow is diverse, the real limitation is light and space, but here’s a few ideas.
Annuals suitable for containers include:
* Lily of the Nile – even the dwarf size, Peter Pan, is ideal for smaller containers.
*Chrysanthemum – an autumn favorite.
* Daylily – easily divided to grow new plants.
* Begonia – does well in hanging baskets.
* Lantana – flowers can change color as the flowers mature.
* Petunias – popular summer flowers.
* Black-eyed Susan – flowers about two-inches in diameter.
* Zinnia – variety of colors and types.
* Marigold – shades of yellow and orange and mix well with other annuals.
* Pansy/Viola – blossom early in the spring.
Vegetables
* Cucumber – lots of water and a large container.
* Eggplant – does well with frequent fertilizing.
* Lettuce – needs frequent feedings and watering’s.
* Squash – Summer squash does especially well in containers.
* Tomato – many varieties do well in containers, stakes are often used and needed.
* Spinach – likes organically rich soil.
* Cabbage – grows well from seed and likes rich compost.
* Cauliflower – small varieties do best in containers, heads need lots of room.>
* Radish – grow quickly and easily.
* Blueberry – grow well in containers, need warm summer for berries to ripen.
* Potato – wide variety of potato types, and grow easily.
Container gardening can add new looks to the landscape, create a dramatic entrance, and color which can always be changing and just be flat out fun! It’s easy to get started – try it!
Article from:
Plant-Care.com
Safe Plant Pest Control Tips
Like parents trying to protect their children, both indoor and outdoor gardeners want to protect their plants from the bad bugs and pest. How else could they accomplish this without the help of pest control measures? Just as with the same parents-children example, some “protection” could be dangerous.
Pest control must be done with utmost consideration to safety; safety in terms of the plants, animals, humans and the environment. This holds especially true for those with vegetable and organic gardens.
The main purpose of taking care of vegetables and organic gardens will be wiped out if they become “tainted” with pest control chemicals. Plants are extensions of the beauty of Mother Nature. What benefit could anyone get from chemical-laden flowers and vegetables?
Here’s a few tips to make any pest control less damaging or more environment-friendly. These tips are steps for long-term maintenance of your pest control system.
1. Use the physical pest control process.
This may be accomplished through picking by hand, creating barriers and traps and plugging holes.
2. Apply biological pest control – Integrated Pest Management – IPM
Breed predatory insects like as Green lacewings which will feed on aphids that just can’t get enough of your foliage. Bacterial insecticides such as B. thuringiensis could also be used against caterpillars.
3. Finally, resort to chemical pest control.
Organic pesticides or the least-toxic pest control chemicals must be considered as only the last resort in controlling pests. Some of these not-so-toxic chemicals include neem oil, insecticidal soaps, horticultural oils, dehydrating dusts, etc.
4. Consider the use of safer pest control substitutes.
Here’s an alternative pest control recipe:
Against Green Aphids and Mites – 1 tablespoon of liquid soap and a cup of vegetable oil must be mixed. Dilute a teaspoon of this solution with a cup of water. Then, you can spray this mixture to those annoying aphids and mites.
Against Cockroaches – Dusts of boric acid can be applied to cracks or entry points of these insects. Bay leaves on pantry shelves could also help in warding off these critters.
Make sure that ANY chemicals you use for pest control are specific for the insects you are targeting. This could be assured through intently checking on labels. If the insect you would like to kill is not included in the list of the chemical’s target insects, most probably it will not work on that insect.
With these bits of indispensable pest control advice, as a responsible steward of the environment, you are taking care of your plants as well as others.
Article from:
Plant-Care.com
The Daylily is our "club flower" so I thought I would include this article about one of our favorite plants.
Planting Daylily Bulbs and More – When, How and Where
When, How and Where Can I Plant Daylilies?
The preferred planting seasons are spring and fall, but you can plant daylilies any time the ground is frost free. Plant daylilies so the light green line just above the roots is covered with one to two inches of soil. Space them two to three feet apart. Plant pastel, pink and red daylilies in partial shade most others can stand full sun.
When, How and Where Can I Plant Daylilies?
The preferred planting seasons are spring and fall, but you can plant daylilies any time the ground is frost free. Plant daylilies so the light green line just above the roots is covered with one to two inches of soil. Space them two to three feet apart. Plant pastel, pink and red daylilies in partial shade most others can stand full sun.
How Can I Use Daylilies in My Landscaping?
Use low-growing varieties and late-flowering in front of the border, as an edging for tallerplants, or as pool-side plantings. The medium sized group, which includes the bulk of varieties, can be used in almost any garden situation. They are handsome planted in front of a trellis of morning glories, clematis, or passion vine. Use them as companion plants for lythrum, delphinium, gilia, or other tall plants. And they are at their best planted near evergreens or holly. The taller varieties make splendid background material, a screen for service areas, or foundation plantings near a wall or fence.
How Often Should Daylilies be Watered and Fertilized?
Daylilies can stand more drought than many other perennials. Given enough moisture to keep the soil barely moist, they will respond with luxuriant growth and a good flower crop. Fertilize them twice a year, in the spring before blooming, and again after they have finished flowering.
What Pests Bother Daylilies?
If the weather is exceedingly dry, daylilies may be bothered with thrips and red spider. Eradicate thrips
When Can I Divide My Daylilies?
Daylilies are prettiest when grown as specimen clumps. Unless you wish to propagate a rare or expensive type, do not divide daylilies until they are about five years old. Then dig the entire clump and make the divisions with a sharp spade. Replant, spacing them as suggested for establishing newly purchased clumps.
Are Daylilies Hardy?
In our area the dormant varieties are hardy and with covering the semi-evergreens winter fairly well. Foliage on the evergreens stays green the year around. They are splendid for Southern gardens.
Are All Daylilies Single-Petaled Flowers?
No. A number of the new varieties produce double or semi-double flowers.
What Plants can I Use as Companion Plants for Daylilies?
Since daylilies come in such a wide range of colors – cream through all shades of yellow, orange, cinnamon, pastel pink, red and purple, you can use them as companion plants for any annuals or perennials. Blue platycodon (balloon flower), Blue morning glories, clematis, lavender, pink and red phlox, Canterbury bells, Shasta daisies, Gilia rubra, and lythrum are but a few of the plants to grow with your daylilies.
When Do Daylilies Bloom?
Some varieties such as low-growing yellow flowered variety in early spring but the bulk of daylilies blooms in June and July with a few
blooming later in the season. Southern gardeners often get two crops of bloom from their daylilies.
ls it Possible to Grow Daylilies from Seeds?
Yes. Planted and cared for as any other seed-grown perennial they produce flowers in about three years. You can purchase seeds from dealers or you can make your daylilies produce seed by removing some of the pollen (yellow dust on the anthers) and placing it on the stigma of another daylily. The seed ripens in about six weeks.
Article from:
Plant-Care.com
